In most Indian restaurants, the “Dal Makhani” is a side dish—a creamy, comforting bowl of black lentils meant to accompany the main event. But at the ITC Maurya in New Delhi, the lentil is the main event.
Known as Dal Bukhara, this dish has achieved a mythical status in the culinary world. It has been served to nearly every U.S. President since Bill Clinton, along with heads of state from across the globe. But what makes this specific bowl of black lentils worth flying to India for?
The 18-Hour Process
The secret to Dal Bukhara is not a complex spice blend, but time. While a standard home-cooked dal might simmer for an hour, the chefs at Bukhara cook their lentils over a slow coal fire for a minimum of 18 hours.
This agonizingly slow process breaks down the urad dal (black gram) until it reaches a velvety, pudding-like consistency. Unlike standard Dal Makhani, which is often loaded with kidney beans (rajma) and heavy cream to fake richness, Dal Bukhara relies on the reduction of the lentils themselves, finished with a generous amount of unsalted white butter and tomato puree.
The “No Cutlery” Rule
Bukhara is famous for its rustic, stone-walled interior and its strict policy on eating utensils: there aren’t any. Even if you are a visiting dignitary, you are expected to eat with your hands.
The philosophy is that metal alters the taste and texture of the food. To truly experience the silkiness of the Dal and the char of the famous Naan Bukhara (a family-sized naan bread), tactile contact is essential. It is a primal dining experience that recently went viral again when the manager famously told a guest that “Clinton and Obama ate by hand here” so they should too.
Making it at Home?
Many have tried to replicate the recipe at home, but the missing ingredient is usually the smoke. The authentic flavor comes from the juices dripping onto the charcoal of the tandoor and rising back up as smoke to infuse the pot.
If you see “Dal Bukhara” on a menu outside of an ITC hotel, be skeptical. Unless they have an overnight tandoor shift running for 18 hours, you are likely just getting a very good Dal Makhani. They are cousins, but they are certainly not twins.